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April 27 2017

TEVO Tarantula

Full detailed model of TEVO Tarantula 3D Printer. I have the dual extruder upgrade model which is what is what the model is based on.
I created a model to learn Fusion 360 as well as to use as a mock-up for designing upgrades and got a bit carried away. Just about every detail is modeled including all the screws, nuts, washers, belts and even zip-ties. Only thing missing is the electronics and wiring.
Raw CAD files are available but were too big to upload here. Message me if you need those.

Luzbot Mini Tool Holder (Clam Knife, Tweezer)

Lulzbot Mini is a great printer period. It even comes with a lot of tools. Of the tool kit, I use the Clam Knife the most and probably the Tweezer second. I wanted to find a way to keep them organized as part of my printing workstation so I came up with a simple design. Providing two sizes, one for just the clam knife (aka Parts removal knife) and another one for both the knife and tweezer.

Note: The gap I designed should have some tension to keep itself in place, but for added mounting security, I recommend using some thin double sided tape (as seen in one of the pictures I took) to help wedging it in nice and tight against the frame.

Nut Fidget Spinner

This is a simple fidget spinner designed to work with a standard 608ZZ bearing and nuts. It's made with Fusion 360 and it's very easy to customize to fit different bearings and nuts. Some adjustments might have to be done for tolerance and friction fitting, but the fidget itself is very tight so you probabily will only have to file it down a little and the caps are a bit loose and should work out of the box.

I printed mine with a Prusa i3 clone and black PLA, then painted it purple with spray paint. After using a bit of WD-40 on the bearing, i got it to rotate for a minute or longer.

Dyson extension whirly tube

Dyson Extension whirly tube (ribbed plastic tube ca 33mm diameter)

each end needs a pair of cable ties to connect.

Massive holder for z809 bearing

i draw this thing because the bearing holders i found on thingiverse are to instable.

lamp

lamp

RPi Cluster Case with Netgear GS305

This is a case I created for an RPi cluster and it has a Netgear GS305 network switch mount in the bottom. That adds stability and weight to the bottom and a place to network the RPi's. This case with work with RPi 2 B+ and up.

Raspberry Pi 2/3 Case

A straight forward case for the Raspberry Pi 2 or 3.

I designed this primarily to take my Octoprint Pi, as I want to be able to mount this onto the enclosure I'm building for my printer I've included 4 countersunk fastening holes. I've also included open access to the SD card so that swapping that out doesn't necessarily need the lid taken off or the Pi removed. I've printed it in ABS (photos to follow), it's a bit of a tight fit to get the Pi in place but it does fit with gentle persuasion.

Still clinging on to 123D Design as my Cad package of choice, I'll have to convert to Fusion at some point but 123D still works and does everything I need for this sort of design.

Background stand base bracket

This is a replacement for the bottom bracket on a generic no name "Heavy Duty Background Stand" from eBay. The originally was probably slightly abused and ultimately failed. I designed this part as a straight swap out replacement

Destiny spinner

Destiny spinner I made in stem class

Earphones Holder

Are your earphones always in a tangle? This 3D print object will solve the problem

Elicopter

  • Goal
    I originally started this project because I wanted to understand how a quadcopter operates. As the project moved forward, it became more and more important for me to share what I learned. So, I decided to build a new open source quadcopter using Elixir, the project’s goal is the be educational, everyone that reads the code should understand the basics of how a quadcopter works.

  • Material:

    • M3 srews and nuts
    • 16mm and 8mm carbon tubes
    • PLA
    • Flex PLA
  • Links

  • Contact

Don't hesitate to reach me if you have any questions at loic@spin42.com

Battery Case

Hello everyone,

I propose a nice box that looks like a battery for ... batteries :)

I hope you like it, do not hesitate to ask questions if you have any.

Please show me if you made one =)

Bescherelle

Modèle 3D pour les DIYers qui ont des soucis avec la langue française.

LG LED Projector Mount

Mount for an LG LED Projector ( PB60G )

Can easily be modified for other Models, i would think.

Print Arm and two Baseplates fitting your needs

Smartphone Spectroscope IDP WWU

Smartphone Spectroscope IDP WWU (Damian Wosnitzka, Daniel Laumann, Stefan Heusler, Alexander Pusch)

Bill Coin

Bill is Awsome so here is a Coin

Modular Lampshade

Modular Lampshade is a shade that is made from small pieces that fit together and make up a 12 sided cylinder. Modular Lampshade is for tabletop usage.

The idea is to play with different colors. Maybe print the shade with three colors? Or four or six. In my example print I made it with two colors: Yellow and white. Yellow color for calming light. But who is to say that you couldn't print it with more?

Print details:

WALL.stl objects were printed with Wall Count 1, but in hindsight I suggest you put it 2-3, so the thickness will soften the light some more.

WALLWITHHOLE.stl is printed only once per shade. This is the piece where cord can go through.

BOTTOM.stl is a long print. I changed the thickness of it after printing to match TOP piece thickness, so the shade looks more polished. Dimensions are made with standard E27 light bulb. Please use only LED based bulbs for this! They won't warm up so much.

TOP.stl will tie the pieces together when you have reached the height that you are reaching for. Shade will become very sturdy after installing this. I suggest a height at least four layers of WALL objects.

Tip for assembly: Start with BOTTOM and WALLWITHHOLE and continue assembly one by one with WALL pieces. Don't be afraid to use rubberhammer or such if the holes feel too tight (I used hammer only once during assembly). I used a file and a blade post-printing for the joints. They had some inaccuracies and leftover filament.

Tip for printing: I printed WALL objects usually after some other prints if nozzle was the right size (0.6). WALL is quite fast print which doesn't need massive post-printing processing, so the shade came together piece by pieces slowly. If there is small errors in WALL objects, just let them be. Light will make them disappear and maybe it brings some "personality" to the shade. Remember that only the front of the WALL object will show in the final shade. Joints are hidden.

Anyway. Play with the colors! and maybe leave some holes to the assembly if you want. The joints should hold.

WiFi Adapter for PC with No Arial support

Needed an adapter so made one... My new motherboard for some reason didn't come with a IO cover with pre-cut out holes for external WiFi Antenna's so i made one.. :)

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